Cheeky monkey

So we have been here for just under 2 months and I have taken the opportunity to walk around town and Mons is an interesting place. It is remarkably beautiful in places and almost bizarre if not sad in others. I am sure that you could say the same for any location that is new to you (especially that of which is foreign), but I thought that I would put my thoughts down here and share them with you.

Mons' mascot is a monkey, hence the "clever" title to this blog. The best explanation for this that I can find is that there is a small bronze medieval statue, attached to the outside of Town Hall at ground level, that grants good luck to those that rub its head. Not surprising, the head is shiny from hundreds of years of rubbing. I have not found where this tradition came from (or why a monkey, or why it was posted next to the city’s most important building) but it has been around a long time. Famous “tourists” that have visited said monkey include Emperor Charles V of Hapsburg (1500-1558) and Emperor Napoleon of France (1769-1821). Bizarre huh?


I was shocked to realize how old Mons is – it is documented back to Roman times and beyond. “Mons” is a shortened version of Montes, which is mountains in French. Because most everything is bilingual (by this I mean that the signs change when you go from a French speaking province to a Flemish one) the Dutch/Flemish name is Bergen, same meaning. It began to grow and thrive upon the founding of a convent here by noblewoman Waudru (Sainte Waudru) in the late 600’s. As the community grew up around this religious center, the strategic value of the place also increased and the occupations began. To name a few, the Austrians, French, Dutch, Spanish and Germans have occupied what we now know as Belgium. (Belgium has been independent since 1830.)

The church that was built to pay tribute to Lady Waudru began in 1450 and was completed in 1621 – and it is spectacular. I had been walking around town (on my way back from the Red Cross – a thrift store, great sweaters!) and decided to pop in. I literally had the entire place to myself, which was cool and disconcerting at the same time. A person does feel small and insignificant in the face of such a building – ones eyes are naturally drawn up to the beauty and majesty of the soaring columns and arches, and I couldn’t help but think of the glory of God. The church is huge and imposing. The carving work was wonderful – both the stone and woodwork, completed by local artists. They had a huge ornate carriage (definitely in the Rococo style) off to one side that is used to carry the shrine of Sainte Waudru through the streets every year on Trinity Sunday. The crowd helps push the carriage along – whether this is because of the weight and the horses need help or if it is crowd participation I don’t know. Just beautiful.


Mons is known in the 20th Century for the fierce battle fought here which marked the first major action of the British Expeditionary Forces in World War I. [For those interested, more information can be found at: http://www.1914-1918.net/bat1.htm] It has also been home to NATO’s Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers Europe (SHAPE) since 1967 when it moved from Fontainebleau after France’s withdrawal from the military structure of the alliance.


The Grand Place dates back to medieval times and truly is the hub of this town. I have to say, it is nice to go down and enjoy a meal or a hot chocolate at one of the restaurants on the Grand Place on the weekend – there is almost always something going on. We have witnessed Jazz bands, Swing bands, street performers, college initiation rights (I think this was like a fraternity thing), and an aerial acrobat team that “danced” on the buildings and dangling from wires, to name a few. There is also a pedestrian walking zone/shopping district directly off the Place which makes it that much more popular. I can say one thing for sure, there is a lot to like about Mons. It is an interesting place.