Gorgeous Ghent

Before we leave Belgium for good, I wanted to visit a little more of the country, particularly the Flanders area, in the north. We had one more weekend day available and chose to check out Ghent. Ghent is often compared to Brugges, and since we love Brugges, we thought it would be a good bet.


The city started as a settlement at the confluence of the Rivers Schelde and Leie and became in the Middle Ages one of the largest and richest cities of northern Europe. Ghent was a seat of the counts of Flanders, who build a castle here in the 12th century, but local fortifications predate their reign, back to the 900's.


Het Gravensteen (Castle of the counts) is a stern looking castle built to discourage local merchants from uprising against the counts. It was built by Count Philip of Alsace, count of Flanders, soon after he returned from the Crusades in 1180 with images of similar castles from the Holy Land.

Unlike the other castles we have visited, the structure wasn't built on a hill and doesn't dominate the scenery. However, the view from the top of the ramparts was lovely. The city was currently undergoing a major construction project that had ripped up most of the Grand Place and there were a dotting of cranes throughout the city scape, but the beauty of the canals and old style charm still shined through.

The views within the castle were equally lovely. I love the lines and architecture, the organic next to the contrived.

I have come to love taking pictures out of windows - a snapshot of what the city offers from the perspective of the historic site. I like limited views because I struggle at times when looking over the entire skyline, to take in the essence of the site - and this has really helped me remember the feeling.

I liked being able to see the canal and boats in this one. The canals are such a huge part of the history of the city.

This beautiful room was the chapel originally, but then later became the torture chamber. That seems like a pretty dramatic switch to me. Who came up with that idea? And more importantly, who thought that was a good idea?! Craziness. The room is lovely. I prefer to think of it as a chapel.


The other item we came to see in Ghent was the fantastic 24-panel altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, completed by the master Jan van Eyck in 1432. Commissioned by the wealthy merchant and financier Joost Vijdt for his and his wife's private chapel, it was begun by Hubert van Eyck, who died in 1426 whilst work was underway, and completed by his younger brother Jan van Eyck. The altarpiece represented a "new conception of art," in which the idealization of the Classical tradition gave way to an exacting observation of nature.


The altarpiece consists of a total of 24 compartmented scenes, which make up two views, open and closed, which are changed by moving the hinged outer wings. The upper register (row) of the opened view shows Christ the King (but some argue that it is God the Father, and a third view is that it is a combination of both) between the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. The insides of the wings represent angels singing and making music, and on the outside Adam and Eve. The lower register of the central panel shows the adoration of the Lamb of God, with several groups in attendance and streaming in to worship, overseen by the dove representing the Holy Spirit. On weekdays the wings were closed, showing the Annunciation of Mary and donor portraits of Joost Vijdt and his wife Lysbette Borluut. It was displayed in St. Bavo's Cathedral in a special room, and a special case, that allowed us to see all of the panels.

We weren't allowed to take pictures inside, so thankfully these great pictures were available on-line. The piece was truly remarkable and worth the crowd to enjoy. The fine detail that has gone into the face, clothing, attributes associated with each of the characters, the scenery (towers of Ghent in the background of the city scene), was remarkable to witness.


A lovely city. I would have loved to see the city at its best, but maintenance must take place when it is needed. I am glad we went.